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Follow The Path Of Early Colonial Development

By Robert W. Shiles

      When it comes to the number and variety of major U.S. historical attractions, few places can compare to eastern North Carolina.

      From Roanoke Island, where the first permanent English settlement was established in 1584, to Wilmington, a vital port city to the confederacy during the Civil War, there are countless reminders of events and Tar Heel accomplishments that helped shape both our state and nation.

      One of the best ways to experience coastal North Carolina's rich heritage is to travel U.S. Highway-17 from the Virginia state line to South Carolina. Along this 285-mile route are museums, old cities and towns, plantations and enough historic sites to satisfy the taste of any history buff.

      Here are some major attractions you will want to visit as you explore the historic Ocean Highway.

      As one begins his journey south from the Virginia state line, he follows the bank of the Dismal Swamp Canal, the oldest continually operating canal in the United States. This 22-mile waterway, that links the Chesapeake Bay and the Albemarle Sound, was built between 1793 and 1805 and served as the major commercial trade route between North Carolina and Virginia until the late nineteenth century.

  While virtually all commercial traffic now uses the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, a parallel route, the scenic Dismal Swamp Canal is still the favorite of pleasure boaters.

  At the southern end of the canal is Elizabeth City, a town of many old homes and a redeveloped waterfront. The local historic district, which covers a 30-block area, is included in the National Register of Historic Places.

  On the outskirts of the city is the Museum of the Albemarle, a branch of the North Carolina Museum of History. Here, exhibits portray the cultural, economic, religious and social history of the people who have lived in the Albemarle region since it was first inhabited by the Algonquin Indians.

      No trip into the past would be complete without visiting the spot where the United States began. Before continuing south on US-17, take US-158 and follow it to the beautiful Outer banks.

      In Kill Devil Hills, stop at the Wright Brothers National Memorial where in December 1903, Orville and Wilbur Wright made the first controlled power flight in a heavier-than-air machine. A 60-foot granite monument honoring the aviators, a visitor's center housing aviation displays, and an outdoor reproduction of the Wright's camp are featured at this historic site.

      On Roanoke Island, visit the Fort Raleigh Historic Site where more than 400 years ago 112 English men, women and children established the first permanent English settlement in the New World. During the summer, Paul Green's famous outdoor drama, "The Lost Colony", brings to life the Roanoke voyages and life in this early settlement.

  Reminders of the early settlers are also present in Manteo, where the Elizabeth II, a replica of the ship that brought the settlers to America is anchored. The ship is a living museum that offers visitors a sampling of life in the 16th century.

      Historic Plymouth is in Washington County, a perfect stop when traveling US-64 to and from the beautiful Outer Banks of NC. Within easy walking distance one can experience three interesting museums and a river lighthouse in Historic Plymouth. Located on the banks of the Roanoke River you will find:

  * Port O'Plymouth Museum, which is a Civil war museum, including a 3/8-scale replica of the CSS Albemarle moored behind the museum on the Roanoke River.

  * The Wildlife Museum, which exhibits animal mounts from Alaska to Africa and points in between, including the Big Five, the most dangerous animals in Africa.

  * The Roanoke River Lighthouse has been replicated to look as it did from 1866-1885 on the waterfront in historic Plymouth and allows one to experience life as a lighthouse keeper during the time. Climb to the top of the lighthouse and experience a most beautiful view of the Roanoke River.

      Travelers on US-64 can also experience early life in Washington County by visiting the Davenport Homestead, Somerset Place and Pettigrew State Park, located near Creswell, NC.

      Back on US-17, about 16 miles from Elizabeth City, is Hertford, site of the state's oldest brick house. Built about 1685 by Joseph Scott - a magistrate, legislator and one of North Carolina's first Quakers - the fully restored Newbold-White House is considered an excellent example of colonial architecture.

      Located on the picturesque Perquimans River, Hertford contains dozens of old homes and public buildings, some dating back to the 1820s. In the Perquimans County Courthouse - a Federal style structure built about 1825 - is the oldest recorded land deed in North Carolina. The 1661 deed shows the purchase of land between the Yeopim Indian King and a settler, George Durant.

      Called by many "the South's prettiest town," no history buff should miss Edenton. Located on Edenton Bay, this beautiful waterfront community was the first capital of the province of North Carolina and a center of learning, trade, culture and political activity during the colonial period.

      Several patriots, including Joseph Hewes, signer of the Declaration of Independence, and Dr. Hugh Williamson, signer of the U.S. Constitution, lived in Edenton. This thriving community was also the site of the Edenton Tea Party, where in 1774, area women signed a resolution declaring not to drink English tea or wear English clothing until British taxes were abolished.

      Today visitors can tour several 18th century homes, churches and public buildings. The Chowan County Courthouse is known as the finest Georgian-style courthouse in the south.

      Just off US-17, on NC-308, in Windsor, is the Hope Plantation, another 5,000-acre homestead of Governor David Stone. Today, the luxurious Georgian mansion contains an elaborate collection of furnishings from the early 18th century. The grounds also contain the King-Bazemore House, an old country-style home built in 1763.

      In Washington, on the Pamlico and Tar Rivers, a walking tour leads to 23 sites of historic and architectural significance. Incorporated in 1776, this waterfront community became a cultural and commercial center after the American Revolution. Most of the towns oldest buildings were destroyed in a fire set by Union troops in 1864.

      In Washington, take US-264 and travel 16 miles to Bath. Founded in 1705, this small community on the Pamlico River is the oldest town in North Carolina.

      Bath quickly became an important trade and political center. Here the lives of pirates - such as the notorious Edward Teach, Blackbeard - intertwined with the region's prominent planters and pioneers, colonial governors, and statesmen.

      After an introductory audio-visual presentation, tour the historic district where several structures from the 18th and 19th centuries have been restored and furnished with artifacts from the colonial period. Among these buildings, the Palmer Marsh House, one of the state's oldest homes; St. Thomas Episcopal Church, the oldest church in North Carolina still holding services; and the Bonner House recognized as one of the finest examples of 19th century Carolina architecture. A late 19th century brick commercial building, Swindell's Store, still operates as a general store.

      About 15 miles east of Bath on US-264 is Belhaven, a small fishing and farming community on the Pungo River.  Here the Belhaven Memorial Museum is housed in the old city hall.

      This museum, which began about 1900 as a private collection of buttons, now includes a wide variety of articles ranging from Civil War artifacts, furniture, old farming tools, and early kitchen ware to preserved snakes, coins, shells and a watch fob made from the first Atlantic cable.

      Back on US-17, visit New Bern, the center of North Carolina government during most of the 18th century. Here one finds the famous Tryon Palace, home of Royal Governor, William Tryon and his successor Josiah Martin. Known in colonial times as "the most beautiful public building in colonial America," the beautiful Georgian-style palace is furnished with antiques and art from the colonial period.

      In addition to the palace, and its lovely gardens, this community on the Neuse River has many restored homes and churches representing American architecture from the Colonial period to the early 20th century. There is also a firemen's museum that includes a collection of early firefighting equipment, rare photographs and Civil War relics.

      Just off Highway 17 lies Duplin County. The county has guided tours that will take you to another place in time at Liberty Hall Plantation, Murray House, or the Dr. Buckner Hill Plantation. Visit the 1894 L. P. Best Home, also home to the Duplin County Veterans Memorial Museum. While you're there, take a tour of the Duplin Winery and taste the award-winning wines made from native Muscadine Scuppernong grapes.

      Recently Duplin County opened the doors to the state-of-the-art Duplin County Events Center. The 74,000 sq. ft. facility plays host to numerous events including the 2nd annual NC Muscadine Harvest Festival scheduled for September 30th.

      The next stop, Wilmington, is today one of the East Coast's fastest growing deep-water ports. It has a long and colorful history dating back before the Revolutionary War.

      Located in the junction of two branches of the Cape Fear River, Wilmington was the region's political, cultural and trading center during most of the 18th and 19th centuries. During the Civil War, it served as a major supply center for the confederate Army, and was the last Atlantic port of the Confederacy open to trade.

      Visitors to the city can still view many of the older homes that make up the community's 200-block historic district. A walking tour includes entrance to two of the city's most beautiful historic homes.

      Across the Cape Fear River is the Battleship North Carolina, a living museum of World War II. Visitors can tour the ship and attend an excellent sight and sound show staged each evening during mild weather months.

      Before finishing the last few miles of US-17 that passes through North Carolina, take NC-133 south from Wilmington to visit the remains of the area's first permanent settlement, a prominent plantation, and the major fort that protected Wilmington during the Civil War.

      At Brunswick Town Historic Site are the remains of the colonial port of Brunswick, established in 1726, and the earth mounds of Fort Anderson, built by the confederate Army to defend the Cape Fear River and Wilmington. Exhibits portraying life in the colonial town and artifacts taken from the ruins are on display in the visitor's center.

      Nearby is the Orton Plantation Gardens, considered by many to be one of the finest gardens in America. Here one can take a leisurely stroll among the elegantly arranged gardens that are surrounded by rice fields and huge ancient oaks.

      The beautiful White Orton House, a Greek-Revival structure that can be viewed from the gardens, is not open to the public.

      And finally, at Southport, end your trip through the past by taking a scenic, 30-minute ferry ride along the Cape Fear River shipping channel to Fort Fisher. The fort, constructed mainly from earth and sand, was the major Confederate defense for Wilmington. It fell to Union troops on January 15, 1865, during the largest bombardment of the 19th century. Today, visitors to Fort Fisher can view the remains of the earthwork fortification and study museum exhibits featuring civil war artifacts.

      Eastern North Carolina is not only a great place to visit, it's a great place to live. The slow, quiet southern style of life, convenience to amenities, including medical care, warm, sunny weather and friendly people, helped in making Eastern North Carolina one of the top ten places in the United States to retire.

Reprinted from Carolina Business online.

Copyright © 2006 CarolinaBusiness.com